How To Mount A Jerry Can On A Roof Rack Or Rear Carrier Without Rattles

By Mike

Certified Professional Automotive Mechanic – Owner and Editor of VehicleRuns

Last Updated: June 24, 2026

A loose jerry can is more than an annoying source of rattles. It can wear through paint, damage the rack or carrier, stress mounting hardware, and in the worst case shift or break free on rough roads. Whether you carry extra fuel for overlanding or water for camping, the goal is the same: mount it solidly enough that it stays put without metal-on-metal noise.

The good news is that a quiet setup usually comes down to a few basics: the right mount, tight hardware, controlled strap tension, and a barrier between hard surfaces that would otherwise vibrate against each other. This guide walks through how to mount a jerry can on a roof rack or rear carrier, what hardware works best, and how to stop the common causes of clunks, squeaks, and rattles before they start.

Always follow your vehicle, roof rack, and carrier weight limits, and never transport gasoline inside the passenger cabin. If you are carrying fuel, use a proper fuel-rated can and keep it upright, sealed, and away from heat sources.

Choose the Right Mounting Location First

Before buying brackets or tightening straps, decide where the jerry can should live. A roof rack gives you flexibility and frees up rear cargo space, but it raises the center of gravity and makes lifting a full can harder. A rear carrier or swing-out mount is easier to access, but it can add leverage and vibration at the back of the vehicle.

For most DIY owners, the best location is the one that keeps the can upright, tightly constrained, and supported at its base. The mount should prevent movement in all directions: up and down, side to side, and front to back. If the can can rock even slightly by hand, it will usually rattle on the road.

• Use a roof rack when you need cargo flexibility and have a rack rated for the load.
• Use a rear carrier or swing-out when easier access matters and the carrier is designed for dynamic loads.
• Avoid mounting near sharp edges, exhaust heat, tailpipe outlets, or places where the can can contact the body during flex.
• Keep the mount as low and as close to the vehicle structure as possible for less shake.

What You Need for a Solid, Quiet Install

Core Hardware

• A dedicated jerry can holder, tray, lockable bracket, or carrier basket sized for your can
• Grade-rated bolts, washers, and lock nuts that fit the rack or carrier mounting points
• Large backing plates or load-spreading washers when mounting to thinner material
• Thread locker for bolts that are not meant to be frequently removed
• Rubber or neoprene padding strips, adhesive foam, or anti-vibration isolators
• A quality ratchet strap or cam buckle strap if your mount design requires one
• Basic hand tools, torque wrench, and rust-resistant touch-up paint if drilling is necessary

Best Anti-rattle Materials

Most rattles happen where hard surfaces touch. Thin rubber padding between the holder and the can, between the holder and the rack, or under metal clamp points can make a big difference. Closed-cell foam or neoprene works better than soft household foam because it resists fuel splash, moisture, and compression.

• Neoprene strips for tray edges and clamp surfaces
• Rubber washers under bracket hardware where allowed
• UHMW tape or rubberized tape on contact points
• A short piece of inner tube material for strap pass-through areas

How to Mount a Jerry Can on a Roof Rack

A roof rack setup needs two things: a stable base and a holder that matches the rack’s slat spacing or platform design. Avoid relying on straps alone over a bare can sitting on crossbars. That can shift, scuff the can, and create constant movement.

Step-by-step Roof Rack Setup

1. Set the empty holder or tray on the rack and place it so the load sits over strong rack supports, not at a weak unsupported edge.
2. Check hatch, sunroof, and antenna clearance before drilling or tightening anything.
3. Bolt the holder to the rack using the correct channels, brackets, or U-bolts. Use backing plates or large washers if needed.
4. Add thin rubber or neoprene between the holder and rack where metal would otherwise contact metal.
5. Place the jerry can in the holder upright with the cap facing a direction that allows inspection and access.
6. Tighten the clamp, retention bar, or strap so the can cannot rock, but do not crush the can walls.
7. Shake the can by hand from multiple directions. If you hear clicking or feel movement, add padding or retension the mount.
8. After the first drive, recheck bolt torque and strap tension.

Roof Rack Positioning Tips

• Mount the can inside the rack footprint, not hanging off the side.
• Keep heavier fuel loads toward the center of the rack when possible.
• Leave enough room to open the cap safely and remove the can without dragging it across the rack.
• If carrying one can, place it where it does not create a strong left-right imbalance.

How to Mount a Jerry Can on a Rear Carrier or Swing-out

Rear-mounted setups often see more vibration because they sit farther from the vehicle’s suspension center and can bounce on rough roads. That makes anti-rattle design even more important. The best rear setups use a rigid bracket with a positive clamp, not just a loose basket and one strap.

Step-by-step Rear Carrier Setup

1. Inspect the carrier or swing-out for play before adding the jerry can. A shaky carrier will make any can rattle.
2. Install the jerry can holder on a flat, reinforced section of the carrier using proper bolts and load-spreading hardware.
3. Add padding at the base and side contact points so the can sits snugly without bare metal rubbing.
4. Place the can upright and center it in the holder before tightening the clamp or latch.
5. Use a secondary retention method if needed, such as a short backup strap, but do not let strap hooks bang against the carrier.
6. Confirm the rear door, swing arm, and taillights still operate without interference.
7. Drive a short test loop over small bumps, then inspect for witness marks that show movement.

If your rear carrier already rattles when empty, fix that first. Tightening hinge points, adjusting latch preload, replacing worn bushings, or adding anti-rattle hitch devices can eliminate noise that may otherwise be mistaken for the jerry can mount.

How to Stop Rattles Before They Happen

The quietest setup is one where the jerry can is firmly compressed into a shaped holder and isolated from vibration at contact points. In practice, most rattles come from four sources: loose hardware, an oversized holder, strap slack, or another part of the carrier moving nearby.

Common Anti-rattle Fixes

• Use lock nuts, thread locker, and proper torque so bolts do not back out over time.
• Add rubber shims or neoprene tape anywhere the can can tap the bracket.
• If the holder is slightly oversized, use thin padding on two or three contact faces to remove free play.
• Route strap tails so they cannot flap in the wind or slap the rack.
• Cover metal buckle contact points so they do not hit the can or carrier.
• Recheck clamp tension with a full can, since weight can settle the setup differently than an empty can.
• Inspect for wear marks after the first few trips and pad those exact spots.

A Simple Shake Test

With the can mounted, grab it and try to move it in every direction. You should feel the vehicle move before the can moves inside the holder. If the can shifts independently or makes a clicking sound, keep adjusting until that movement is gone.

Safety Considerations for Fuel and Water Cans

Not every can is intended for every job. If you are carrying gasoline or diesel, use a fuel-rated jerry can and cap system approved for that purpose. Water cans should be kept separate from fuel equipment to prevent contamination and confusion.

• Never overfill a fuel can; leave expansion space.
• Keep the can upright and the cap fully sealed.
• Do not mount fuel where it can be exposed to direct exhaust heat or sparks.
• Check local regulations for external fuel transport, especially on ferries, in parks, or at certain campsites.
• Inspect the can regularly for dents, seam damage, cap gasket wear, or leaks.
• Label water and fuel cans clearly if they look similar.

A full jerry can is heavy enough to become dangerous in a sudden maneuver or on a washboard road. If you are unsure about a rack’s real-world capacity over rough terrain, use a lighter fill level or relocate the can to a more stable mount.

Maintenance and Inspection After Installation

A quiet install is not a one-time job. Vibration, weather, and repeated loading can loosen even a well-built setup. A quick inspection routine helps catch problems early.

• Check bolt torque after the first trip and then at regular intervals.
• Look for compressed, torn, or fuel-soaked padding and replace it as needed.
• Inspect straps for fraying, UV damage, and slipping buckles.
• Watch for rust around drilled holes or scratched mounting surfaces.
• Check the holder for shiny wear marks that indicate movement.
• Reconfirm that the can still fits tightly when full and when nearly empty.

If a new noise appears, do not assume the can itself is the only cause. Roof rack crossbars, rear carrier pivots, hitch receivers, and loose accessory mounts often create similar sounds.

Mistakes to Avoid

• Using a generic strap-only setup with no tray or side support
• Mounting the can where it can rub directly on painted body panels
• Ignoring rack or carrier weight limits, especially dynamic off-road loads
• Letting a metal buckle or strap hook contact the can or mount
• Overtightening to the point that the can deforms or the bracket bends
• Skipping a test drive and retorque check after installation
• Carrying fuel in a non-fuel-rated container

Related Buying Guides

FAQ

Can I Strap a Jerry Can Directly to Roof Rack Crossbars?

It is not the best approach. A bare can strapped to crossbars can shift, chafe, and rattle. A dedicated holder or tray with side support and padding is much safer and quieter.

What Is the Best Way to Stop a Jerry Can Mount From Rattling?

Use a rigid holder, tighten hardware correctly, add rubber or neoprene at contact points, and remove all free play. The can should not rock or click when you shake it by hand.

Is It Better to Mount a Jerry Can on the Roof or Rear Carrier?

A rear carrier is usually easier to access and easier to load, while a roof rack can free up rear space. The better option is whichever gives you a stronger, more stable mount within the vehicle’s load limits.

How Tight Should the Strap or Clamp Be?

Tight enough that the can cannot move independently inside the holder, but not so tight that the can walls deform. Recheck tension after driving because the setup may settle.

Can I Use Foam to Stop Rattles?

Yes, but use durable closed-cell foam, neoprene, or rubber rather than soft household foam. The material should resist moisture, compression, and occasional fuel exposure.

Do I Need a Lockable Mount?

A lockable mount is helpful if the can stays outside full-time or you travel in public areas. It can also improve retention because many lockable holders use a more secure clamp design.

How Often Should I Inspect the Mount?

Check it after the first drive, after any rough-road trip, and periodically during normal use. Look for loose hardware, worn padding, strap damage, and signs that the can has been moving.